Discover Suvereto, a nice medieval hamlet in province of Livorno Tuscany
Suvereto is a delightful medieval village located in val di Cornia that has preserved its typical atmosphere. The hamlet, still surrounded by its medieval walls, has preserved its urban fabric capable of giving to the visitors remarkable glimpses and little surprises behind every corner.
Many of the monuments in Suvereto date back the 12th and the 13th centuries when the village was part of the Aldobrandeschi’s domain. Later Suvereto became part of the Repubblica Pisana, then of the Stato di Piombino, of the Principato di Lucca and finally of the Granducato di Toscana.
Located in a hilly area not far from the Costa degli Etruschi and from the Isola d’Elba, Suvereto is very appreciated by who is looking for a holiday full of good food, culture and peace.
What to do in Suvereto
The visit to Suvereto starts from piazza Vittorio Veneto, just outside the city walls. Here we find, next to each other, the Pieve di San Giusto and the former Oratory of San Michele Arcangelo, which today hosts the Museum of Sacred Art.
Pieve di San Giusto
Documented since the 10th century, the pieve di San Giusto was erected in 1189; it is one of the most interesting examples of romanesque architecture in the province of Livorno. The sober facade is adorned with a beautiful portal with two classically inspired columns supporting two lions intent on catching two human figures. Inside the main attraction is the baptismal font; an octagonal tub probably built during the renovation at the end of the 12th century.
Museo di Arte Sacra “San Giusto”
The museum of Sacred Art of Suvereto is housed inside the Oratorio della Confraternita della Misericordia e del SS. Sacramento (1881). Inaugurated in 2000, the museum exposes art-works as wooden statues , paintings, liturgical furnishings and reliquaries, coming from many places around the hamlet and particularly from the pieve di San Giusto. Among the most important works we mention the Andrea Guardi‘s sculpture “Madonna della Fonte degli Angeli” (15th century) and the wooden stautes representing the Annunciation, attributed to Lorenzo di Pietro called “il Vecchietta”.
Address: Piazza Vittorio Veneto 3
July- 15 September: saturday-sunday 17.00-19.00 and 21.00-23.00
16 September – June: saturday-sunday 17.00-19.00.
The walls of Suvereto
Fews steps from the museum, a nice citye gate shows us the way to continue the visit to the village. Known in the past with various names (Porta al Piano, Porta a Mare, Porta piombinese and Porta Grande), the current city gate was built in 1857 in substitution of the former medieval door. Crossing it we get to the main street, via Magenta, that leads to the second city gate (Porta di Sassetta). These two doors porte opens on a well preserved boundary wall which still retains some defensive towers.
Chiesa della Madonna di sopra la Porta
Just beyond the city gate, we find the eighteenth-century Chiesa della Madonna di sopra la Porta. This church was created in place of a previous fourteenth-century church of which has been preserved the bezel located over the portal. Inside, near the main altar, a painting representing Madonna con Bambino (14th century) is the protagonist of the scene framed as it is between colorful marbles.
Deviating from the main street on via Piave we can quickly get to the Palazzo Comunale. Very nice example of medieval building, the palace was built in the beginning of the 13th century as a result of administrative autonomy granted to the village by the Aldobrandini. The main features of the buildings are the Loggia dei Giudici (Judge’s loggia), where were issued the judgments, and the bell tower that is on the top of the palace.
Chiesa del Crocifisso and the chiostro di San Francesco
Returning on the main road, we have to cross piazza Gramsci to get to the chiesa del Crocifisso and the cloister of the former Convent of San Francesco.
The chiesa del Crocifisso, was erected during the 16th century to preserve a Crucified Christ, a wooden sculpture from the 1420 attributed to Domenico dei Cori. Given that the patron of Suvereto is the Holy Cross, this work ha a very important role during the local festival.
The former convent of San Francesco, built in 1288 and abolished during the Napoleonic period, has been converted to private residences. We can still admire the cloister of the convent that creates a peaceful and pleasant ambient with its covered walkways.
Museo artistico della Bambola
In the last tract of via Magenta, the Museo della Bambola collects dolls coming from various ages. The exposition traces the evolution of style of this kind of production with a particular attention to the techniques and the materials.
Address: via Magenta 14
September – June: saturday, sunday and holidays 17.00-19.00
15 June- 1 September: saturday, sunday and holidays 17.00-19.00 and 21.00-23.00
Ticket: free access
Located on the hillock in the highest point of the hamlet, the rocca Aldobrandesca is documented since the 10th century. Restored many times over the centuries, also by the Repubblica di Pisa, since the 17th century it lost its military function and in the nineteenth century was used for civil functions. Now the structure is property of the Municipality that opened it to the public after some restorations. Good panoramic point of view on the valley of the Cornia, the fortress preserves some of its structures as part of the tower built during the 11th century.
How to get to Suvereto
From north highway A12 till the exit Venturina, from there follow indications for Suvereto on SS398
From south highway A12 till the exit Follonica Est then continue on SR439, SP33, SP19 and SS398
By train and bus: the train closest station is in Campiglia Marittima. From there take the bus line 003 by Tiemme Piombino.